Sewing Machine Needles

The Complete Guide & How to Choose Them

• • PARTS OF THE NEEDLES • •

Shank – the larger part of the needle that is inserted into the needle bar. The back of the needle is flat, which helps in the correct insertion of the needle. The flat portion of the needle is inserted facing the back of the machine.

Shaft – the smaller thinner part of the needle that goes through the fabric during stitching by the machine.

Groove- the indentation on the shaft of the needle on which the thread lays.

Eye – the hole of the needle through which the needle is threaded.

Point – the tip of the needle, and the part of the needle which determines what needle should be used for what fabric

• • NEEDLES SIZES • •

Sewing machine needles sizes are determined according to both the American and/or European system of sizing. Generally both numbers will be given.

European sizes: 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, and 110

USA sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18

When packages list both sizes, the European size is written over the American size and looks like a fraction. For example: 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, and 110/18.

A good rule of thumb to remember is that the smaller the number, the finer the needle. In addition, the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle size needs to be, to reduce the stress on the fabric.

Another rule of thumb is that the needle should be changed after each sewing project.

• • SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES GUIDE • •

Fabric determines the needle you should use. Get it right and sewing through anything will be a breeze.

1. GENERAL PURPOSE NEEDLES

1.1. Universal

Fabric/Use - Cotton. Not good for knits and delicate fabrics.

Description - Point is very slightly rounded, but sharp enough to pierce woven fabrics.

Sizes - 60/8 – 120/19

1.2. Jersey / Ballpoint

Fabric/Use - Knits and some stretch fabrics

Description - This needle has a medium tip that is a slightly more rounded than a universal needle and passes between the fabric threads instead of piercing them. Ball-point needles ensure more even stitches on coarse and heavy knits and won’t damage spandex, interlocks and other knits that snag or run easily

Sizes - 70/10 – 100/16

1.3. Jeans / Denim

Fabric/Use - Denim, canvas and other rough fabrics. I use them often when I am sewing through a lot of layers

Description - If you find yourself breaking needles a lot, you may need this heavy duty needle to pile through your fabric. These needles have a thick, strong shaft and a very sharp point.

Sizes - 70/10 – 110/18

2. SPECIALTY NEEDLES

2.1. Stretch

Fabric/Use - Lightweight knits (silk jersey), synthetic suede or elastic knitwear (lycra)

Description - The shape of the needle lets it slip right through the knitted stitches without snagging. Stretch needles feature a deep scarf so the bobbin hook gets closer to the needle eye, preventing skipped stitches. Try this needle if you’re getting skipped stitches using a ball-point needle.

Sizes - 75/11 and 90/14

2.2. Microtex / Sharp

Fabric/Use - Delicates and microfiber such as chiffons, violes, silks, chintz, etc

Description - The needle’s point is extra sharp so it slides through the fine threads in the fabric, instead of catching and tearing them. These needles feature a narrow shaft and sharper point to pierce the threads of woven fabrics. Because these needles enable perfectly straight stitching, they’re also ideal for heirloom stitching, topstitching, pintucks and edge stitching

Sizes - 60/8 – 90/14

2.3. Leather

Fabric/Use - Leather, artificial leather and suede, vinyl, and heavy non-wovensynthetic applications

Description - Leather needles have a wedge-shape point that penetrates the fabric without tearing them. When using a leather needle, it’s important to stitch accurately because the needle leaves a large, permanent hole. Tie thread ends, instead of backstitching, to prevent perforating the surface. Because the needle has a slight cutting point, never use it on woven or knit fabrics

Sizes - 80/12 – 110/18

2.4. Embroidery

Fabric/Use - Use for machine embroidery with rayon, polyester, acrylic or specialty threads.

Description - Machine embroidery needles have a larger eye and specially designed scarf that protects the thread against breaking or shredding, even when stitching dense designs.

Sizes - 70/10 – 90/14

2.5. Metallic

Fabric/Use - For use with metallic threads and monofilament thread.

Description - This needle features an even larger eye than the embroidery needle, a fine shaft and a sharp point to prevent thread breakage and shredding. It has a special, large-groove scarf designed to protect the thread and prevent skipped stitches.

Sizes - 80/12

2.6. Overlock

Fabric/Use - Serging all fabrics

Description - They feature a sharp point that is suitable for all fabrics. Choose the size system recommended by your serger manufacturer.

Sizes - BLX1: 2-11 and 2-14; and DCX1: 2-11 and 3-14

2.7. Quilting

Fabric/Use - Machine quilting

Description - Quilting needles feature a sharp, tapered point and are designed to stitch through thick layers and intersecting seams.

Sizes - 75/11 and 90/14

2.8. Self Threading

Fabric/Use - Woven fabric (general-purpose needle)

Description - Self-threading needles have a slot on one side of the eye, so you can slide the thread through it and into the eye—much easier than trying to poke a frayed thread end through a small eye.

Sizes - 80/12 and 90/14

2.9. Spring needle

Fabric/Use - Free-motion Embroidery, monogramming or quilting

Description - It’s designed with a wire coil that surrounds the shaft and acts as a presser foot that depresses the fabric as the needle goes down into the fabric and releases the fabric when the needle raises.

Sizes - Universal: 70/10 – 90/14, Stretch: 75/11 and 90/14, Quilting: 75/11 and 90/14.

2.10. Topstitch

Fabric/Use - Topstitching

Description - Topstitch needles have an extra-large eye and a large groove to accommodate heavy topstitching thread or two strands of all-purpose thread. They also feature an extra-sharp point for straight, accurate stitching.

Sizes - 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16

2.11. Twin

Fabric/Use - Double Topstitching. Use them to stitch parallel rows in a single pass—especially for heirloom or decorative stitching and hemming.

Description - Twin needles are constructed with two needles attached to a single shaft.

These needles can only be used on a sewing machine with zigzag capabilities that threads from front to back.

Sizes - 1.6/70 – 4.0/100 Available in denim, stretch, embroidery and metallic.

Sizing for twin needles is different from other specialty needles with two numbers listed on the packaging. The first number represents the distance (in millimeters) between the needles; the second number represents the European needle size. Use closely spaced needles for fine fabrics and needles that are set farther apart for heavy fabrics.

2.12. Triple

Fabric/Use - Triple topstitching

Description - Triple needles are constructed with three needles attached to a single shaft.

Sizes - 2.5/80 and 3.0/80 Available in universal only.

Sizing for triple needles is different from other specialty needles with two numbers listed on the packaging. The first number represents the distance (in millimeters) between the needles; the second number represents the European needle size (for more info see Twin needle above)

2.13. Wing / Hemstitch

Fabric/Use - Decorative and heirloom stitching, openwork, hemstitching and otherdecorative stitching. Use on tightly woven fabrics such as fine batiste and linen

Description - Wing/hemstitch needles have a flared shaft, which looks like wings, and creates a decorative hole.

Sizes - 100/16 and 120/19

Regarding brands, there are maaaaany different brands to choose and try. I always buy Schmetz if it is an option... I have found their quality is excellent.