Pattern Drafting: Basic Tools and their function

A comprehensive look at pattern drafting tools and how they function in the studio.

Kraft Paper Paper for drafting patterns in a home studio is essential. Without it, it would be close to impossible. In the basic tools and supplies article, I review a few different types of paper and the benefits of each. So, the reason why paper is essential, for both flat pattern making and even draping, is because you need a medium to create the patterns, make adjustments to patterns, and to catalogue styles. Today, a lot of professional pattern makers use software programs like Gerber to create their patterns. And that’s great, for professionals. But, quite frankly it’s very complicated and not necessary for the home apparel designer. Once you advance your skills, you can start transferring your patterns to a digital format. I simple trace my patterns in Adobe Illustrator to catalogue and share them.

“L” Square

The “L” square is one of the most basic of the pattern making rulers. This ruler helps to create accurate 90° angles and straight edges. It measures, rules, and squares simultaneously.

Hip Curve

The hip curve helps to shape the hip line, hem, and lapels.

Vary Form

The vary form ruler blends and shapes armholes, necklines, side seam curves, and more! Just as the name suggests, it does a variety of jobs!

French Curve

Essential tool for accurately shaping armholes, necklines, and collars.

Awl

A handy tool and often overlooked, the awl will pierce a small hole in your pattern to indicate the end of a dart, pocket, trim, or button hole. The awl is also handy for scoring paper to fold, as well as “walking” your measuring tape around curves for accurate measuring.

Notcher

The pattern notcher will create flawless pattern markings. For example, dart legs, seam allowance, center lines, ease, and to identify front from back patterns.

Tracing wheel

Pointed and very sharp wheel transfers marking onto a clean sheet of paper. This tools is often used when retracing patterns or when transfer draped muslin onto paper.

Clear Plastic Ruler

Perfect for measuring seam allowances and drawing dart legs.

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